Sewing patterns from 1940s, '50s and '60s become today's fashions
TRIBUNE-REVIEW
Thursday, January 31, 2002
Remember darts, fitted bodices and full skirts? They're back in home-styled couture.
The McCall's Pattern Co., which makes Butterick and Vogue patterns, has re-issued more than 50 sewing patterns for dresses, suits, gowns and hats out of the 1940s, '50s and '60s. Many feature unusual seams and form-fitting lines. All come with updated directions.
"The suits especially are amazing. They have so much detail," says Kathy Marrone, editor of Vogue Patterns Magazine.
People can find the vintage patterns in Vogue and Butterick catalogs at area Jo-Ann Fabrics and Hancock Fabrics stores.
When Mary Ellen Kubit of Oakland couldn't find suitable bridesmaid dresses for her June 2000 wedding, Kubit ordered 10 gowns in a Vintage Vogue pattern.
"I could not find a style I liked under $400 or $500. ... I wanted a dress with sleeves," says Kubit, director of development for the University of Pittsburgh School of Education.
Gretchen Jackowski of Parker Button Co., Downtown, made Kubit's bridesmaid dresses with Vintage Vogue pattern 2267 - first published in 1954.
"It had a fitted bodice and fitted waistline, and full skirt," Jackowksi says. The dress also featured short sleeves, a square neck and covered belt. The bridesmaids wore pill box hats with their silk satin and organza gowns.
"I was so very happy," Kubit says. "I wish I had one made for myself."
Sewing teacher Ginger Krenn used Vintage Vogue pattern 2444 in her latest jacket-making class at the Thornton Co., Ross. Students used the pattern to make a 1947-style swing jacket in Polarfleece.
Such patterns typically call for some advanced techniques in clothing construction.
"They're made in the tradition of the older patterns, where there's a lining, underlinings, facings ... a lot of darts," Krenn says. "They also are fitted much like the older patterns.
"The problem we ran into - especially with our jacket - was that the arm hole was cut so high," Krenn says. "We had to recut the arm hole to make the jacket comfortable."
An illustration of the vintage jacket - pictured on the pattern envelope - also made the garment appear longer than the finished product.
"A lot of the vintage patterns have drawings on them. ... They are not really true to what you're going to have when you're done," Krenn says.
Krenn, who also sews costumes for the Pittsburgh Public Theater, attributes the rebirth of vintage sewing patterns to public interest in anything old and collectable.
One can bid for old sewing patterns, for example, on eBay.
"I think it's a fad, or a trend, that's kind of in vogue right now," Krenn says. "I think it has a lot to do with the 'collecting thing' that everybody is into.
"The styling of the vintage clothes - especially clothing in the 1940s, after the war - is not a particularly flattering style for older women, or mature women," Krenn says about the garments. "They're very form-fitting."
McCall's Pattern Co. introduced its Vintage Vogue and Butterick Retro patterns in 1999.
The Butterick line includes patterns for a Holy Communion dress, plus a 1960s sun dress. A hat pattern is the best-selling Vintage Vogue pattern.
"The sales started out phenomenally. ... They're still very good," says Marrone of Vogue Patterns Magazine, a spokeswoman for the McCall's Pattern Co. "We continually feed in styles, but twice a year we do take out some styles."
McCall's Pattern Co. resurrected the patterns after successfully marketing some new Vogue patterns for 1950s-style Barbie doll clothes.
"The doll clothes were very successful," Marrone says. "People started writing to us, saying 'Why don't you make them for adults?'
"We did some research - sent out some feelers - and discovered there was a craze starting to happen with 1940s swing dancing, and 1940s nightclub-type things, and there were people looking for vintage clothes," she says.
"We actually found some Vogue patterns from the 1940s," Marrone says. "We gave the actual patterns - the tissues - to our pattern-making department, and said, 'Make this exact pattern, but make it in our sizes that we have today.' "
| New life for old patterns |
Vogue Patterns Magazine invites home sewers to join its search for yesteryear apparel patterns.
Do you have a decades-old Vogue pattern with all the pieces and instructions intact?
The McCall's Pattern Co. copies such original patterns to produce its Vintage Vogue line of patterns. The company's archives provide a number of the originals. Others come from the collections of employees and individuals.
If you have an old Vogue Pattern that could become a new "Vintage Vogue" pattern, simply photocopy the pattern envelope (keep the pattern) and mail the copy, with your name, address and daytime phone number to: Vintage Vogue Search, Vogue Patterns Magazine, 161 Sixth Ave., NY 10013.
If your pattern is selected, you will receive five Vogue patterns - of your choice - at no charge. Your original pattern also will be returned.
| You don't sew? Hire a dressmaker |
Maybe you don't sew. But you like retro-style clothing. How can non-sewers obtain new apparel made from vintage patterns?
Finding a personal dressmaker might be as easy as calling your nearest fabric store, or paying an online visit to the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers - paccprofessionals.org.
The Fabric Place in Mt. Lebanon, and Thornton Co., located in Ross and Monroeville, are among area shops that keep lists of self-employed dressmakers.
Parker Button Co., Downtown, also accepts orders for custom-made clothing.
It's OK to request references - or to examine someone's finished projects - before agreeing to pay anyone $500 for a new wool suit in your favorite Vintage Vogue pattern.
"There are people out there who will do it, but it's an expensive venture," says former dressmaker Ginger Krenn of Ross.
A good wool fabric, for example, might cost you $25 per yard.
Some dressmakers charge by the hour - expect to pay at least $20 per hour - while others charge by the project. Some work in their homes. Others have shops.
Judith Bixler, for example, employs several seamstresses at her shop, Judy's Originals, which is in Bixler's home in Chippewa Township, Beaver County.
"There are so few people who do serious sewing like we do here," Bixler says.
Customers generally supply dressmakers with the pattern and fabric for any garment, but dressmakers can offer suggestions and advice. Expect to pay extra, however, if a seamstress accompanies you to a fabric store.
At Judy's Originals and Parker Button Co., people can work with dressmakers able to draw original patterns for your own original fashions.
Allow at least six to 12 weeks for a dressmaker to complete any custom-made garment. Dressmakers typically perform two or three 15- to 30-minute fittings before completing any project.
| Best sellers |
Sewing clothes at home used to be a money-saving way of life for many people.
"Now, because ready-to-wear (clothing) is so available, I don't think people feel the need to sew," says Kathy Marrone, editor of Vogue Patterns Magazine.
That's why today's home sewers tend to be creative types with a passion for what they do.
"I put it in line with men who golf. The equipment is very expensive," Marrone says. "You do it because you love doing it. You want the best fabrics, and you want the best designs. ...You're your own personal Calvin Klein, your own personal Donna Karan."
Marrone makes a number of her own clothes at a sewing machine in her bedroom.
"All of our (Vogue and Butterick) patterns have sewing ratings on them - 'very easy,' 'easy,' 'average' or 'advanced.' For the most part, the vintage patterns are rated 'average,' '' Marrone says. "I wouldn't say they're for a beginner."
The best sellers:
"We also have a men's 'zoot' suit that's very popular," Marrone says. "It is Vintage Vogue Pattern 2367."
Deborah Deasy can be reached at ddeasy@tribweb.com or (412) 320-7989.
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